Exploring Istanbul’s most atmospheric underground space You know that feeling when a city suddenly gets quiet and you realize you have stepped into a completely different world? That is the Basilica Cistern. One minute you are walking past street vendors and honking cars near Hagia Sophia. The next, you are entering a totally nondescript building and descending underground into cool air, dripping water, glowing arches, and a place that feels like a cinematic dream sequence. I

Hippodrome in 1573 If you’ve ever wandered through Sultanahmet and found yourself in a long open plaza lined with benches, tea vendors, and a suspiciously racetrack-shaped layout, congratulations, you’ve stepped into Hippodrome Square, one of the most historically layered places in Istanbul. I have walked through this space so many times (it is right in front of the Blue Mosque) without knowing anything about it. I did some digging and felt compelled to share what I found wit